Motorcycle fairings can be made from several different materials ranging from metals, plastics and fibreglass to newer composites such as carbon fibre. The importance of streamlining was known very early in the 20th century. Some streamlining was seen on racing motorcycles as early as the 1920s.

The term fairing came into use in aircraft aerodynamics with regard to smoothing airflow over a components where airflow was disrupted. Early streamlining was often unsuccessful resulting in instability. Handlebar fairings, such as those on Harley-Davidson Tourers, sometimes upset the balance of a motorcycle, causing instability. The introduction on the BMW R100RS in 1976 marked the beginning of widespread adoption of fairings on sports and touring types of motorcycles. Originally, motorcycle fairings were cowlings put around the front of the vehicle, increasing its frontal area. Gradually, over time they became an integral part of motorcycle design. Modern motorcycle fairings increase the frontal area at most by 5% compared to a naked machine. Fairings mostly carry headlights, instruments, and other items. If the fairing is mounted on the frame, mounting equipment on the fairing reduces the weight and inertia of the steering assembly, improving the handling.

Over the years motorcycle fairings have changed in their composition over the years. Most motorcycle fairings are made from acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS). ABS is a plastic commonly used in sport bikes and certain aftermarket fairing manufacturers due to its strong, flexible and light weight properties. The advantage of ABS over other plastics is that it combines strength and rigidity, while also being tough.

There are two common methods of producing an ABS plastic fairing: injection and compression moulding. During injection moulding, ABS plastic is melted and injected into the mould cavity. Constant pressure is applied to allow for material shrinkage. The plastic then cools and hardens in the mould. Injection moulds allows for uniform thickness throughout the entire piece. It gives the most accurate end product that can be produced uniformly every time. This is how we make our fairings at Monster Fairings, as it is the most reliable way to make strong and high quality parts. ABS can also be compression moulded. During compression moulding, the plastic is generally preheated and placed into a heated metal mould cavity and pressure is applied to force the plastic to take the shape of the mould. Heat and pressure is applied until the plastic cures in the mould. The excess plastic is then cut away and removed from the mould. Disadvantages to compression mould include varying product consistency and flashing, which is excess material attached to the moulded part that needs to be removed where two or more parts of the mould meet.

Another option to make motorcycle fairings is using composite materials such as fibreglass and carbon fibre. Fibreglass is made of woven glass fibres, and is used as a reinforcing agent for many plastic products. The composite is known as glass-reinforced plastic (GRP), is normally referred to by the name of its reinforcing material. Fibreglass fairings are commonly used on the race track. In most cases fibreglass is lighter, and more durable than ABS Plastic. Damaged fibreglass can be repaired by applying new layers of woven fibreglass cloth mixed with a polymer such as epoxy over the damaged area, followed by sanding and finishing.

Carbon fibre reinforced plastic (CFRP) is the lightest, but most expensive, fairing material available today. The fairings are made by exactly the same process as with GRP. However, the woven fibres are carbon instead of glass. Carbon fibre has a higher strength to weight ratio than GRP and is mostly used on the race track. Due to this, there is also a reduction in weight and size of fairings, as less material can be used to create fairings of the same strength as other fairings.

The Honda CBR600F4 launched in 1999 and was a complete redesign of the CBR600F3. It had an aluminium frame making it 14kg lighter. The list of changes is long: engine, carburettors, breaks, silencer, wheels, immobiliser, headlight and fairings. This makes it much faster than the F3. 

The F4 was the last bike from the CBR family to be carbureted, making it the last of it’s generation. The F4’s upgrades made the bike a lot faster. So much faster that the words, “Dedicated to Super Evaluators Dirk Vandenberg and Josef Boyd”, are embossed in raised letters on the inside of the Honda CBR600F4’s fairings. This dedication was made because two of Honda Research & Development’s senior product developers were killed during the final testing of this model.

The updates seen in the 1999/2000 CBR600F4 saw a noticeably different ride to the F3 and a major upgrade from the F3. The updated CBR 600 F4 was a very comfortable bike, the suspension has a great balance for the road. It is hard enough to enable the bike to be ridden vigorously, but soft enough to enable a smooth, comfortable ride. The GSX-R 600 would be able to out corner the F4, but the GSX-R is a more focused machine and requires a more experienced hand. However, F4 is good for inexperienced and relaxed riders, where the GSX-R is more aimed towards the more crazy riders that get their knee down at any opportunity.

With a top speed of 160mph it can still compete with the fastest of bikes. This bike is still heavy compared to the current bikes, but obviously with the massive change in materials available over the last 20 years bikes are now lighter and easier to throw around on the track. Compared to a 600 RR this bike is very heavy, but when you know how to control it, there is still a lot of fun to be had with the F4. The carburettors on the F4 are smooth, enabling it to easily be controlled on one wheel. The CBR600F4 fairings were updated to make the fuel tank slightly larger and put it up to 18l. This enables the bike to be ridden for around 200km without the need for a fill up.

Like the F3 the F4 is pretty much bombproof, even after 15 years. Still going strong after around 150,000 miles with electrical system being very reliable and the gearbox having no troubles. The problems with the chain after 30-40,000 miles on the F3 were addressed and as usual with regular oil changes and keeping the revs away from the red line there should be no trouble with the rest of the bike.

The CBR600F4 built upon one of the best bikes of the 90s and made it even better. It was the last carbureted bike of the CBR range and was soon to be replaced with a fuel injected model to send the CBR range into the 21st century. The CBR600F4 was truly the last of a generation.

The Honda CBR600F4 launched in 1999 and was a complete redesign of the CBR600F3. It had an aluminium frame making it 14kg lighter. The list of changes is long: engine, carburettors, breaks, silencer, wheels, immobiliser, headlight and fairings. This makes it much faster than the F3. 

The F4 was the last bike from the CBR family to be carbureted, making it the last of it’s generation. The F4’s upgrades made the bike a lot faster. So much faster that the words, “Dedicated to Super Evaluators Dirk Vandenberg and Josef Boyd”, are embossed in raised letters on the inside of the Honda CBR600F4’s fairings. This dedication was made because two of Honda Research & Development’s senior product developers were killed during the final testing of this model.

The updates seen in the 1999/2000 CBR600F4 saw a noticeably different ride to the F3 and a major upgrade from the F3. The updated CBR 600 F4 was a very comfortable bike, the suspension has a great balance for the road. It is hard enough to enable the bike to be ridden vigorously, but soft enough to enable a smooth, comfortable ride. The GSX-R 600 would be able to out corner the F4, but the GSX-R is a more focused machine and requires a more experienced hand. However, F4 is good for inexperienced and relaxed riders, where the GSX-R is more aimed towards the more crazy riders that get their knee down at any opportunity.

With a top speed of 160mph it can still compete with the fastest of bikes. This bike is still heavy compared to the current bikes, but obviously with the massive change in materials available over the last 20 years bikes are now lighter and easier to throw around on the track. Compared to a 600 RR this bike is very heavy, but when you know how to control it, there is still a lot of fun to be had with the F4. The carburettors on the F4 are smooth, enabling it to easily be controlled on one wheel. The CBR600F4 fairings were updated to make the fuel tank slightly larger and put it up to 18l. This enables the bike to be ridden for around 200km without the need for a fill up.

Like the F3 the F4 is pretty much bombproof, even after 15 years. Still going strong after around 150,000 miles with electrical system being very reliable and the gearbox having no troubles. The problems with the chain after 30-40,000 miles on the F3 were addressed and as usual with regular oil changes and keeping the revs away from the red line there should be no trouble with the rest of the bike.

The CBR600F4 built upon one of the best bikes of the 90s and made it even better. It was the last carbureted bike of the CBR range and was soon to be replaced with a fuel injected model to send the CBR range into the 21st century. The CBR600F4 was truly the last of a generation.

The latest lineup from Honda has some interesting additions. The usual CBR range has not changed much. With updated colours amongst the standard Repsol race rep and the white, red and blue, there are also some different things to look at.

CBR fairings haven’t really changed much over the years, and the latest bikes are not that different. With most bikes available in the standard Repsol orange, white, red and blue. However, there are also some other styles available, that may catch your eye if you don’t want to follow the herd.

My personal favourite it the Konica Minolta race rep, with similar colours to the latest limited edition CBR600RR, blue wheels and a white and black fairing kit is the majority of this look. This is very different from what you normally see on a Honda and in my opinion is one of the best options to go for if you’re looking at changing the colour of your bike. The advantage of this is also the contrasting colours and the white in the paint work also making you more visible on the road which is always a positive.

My next favourite is the white and black CBRs, with just a hint of red they make mean machines and stand out in any crowd. They look modern, which is sometimes hard for Honda as they seem to be using the same paint as they were when they introduced the CBR back in 1992.

If you really want to make your bike standout, consider maybe going for something different entirely. The navy blue and black Honda’s are very nice, and yes the colours are similar to the latest range from Yamaha, but to be honest unless you look at getting a one off custom paint job, you will always find a bike that has similar colours. But that’s not the point. If you want to make peoples heads turn, make your bike different, don’t go for standard Repsol colours, in my opinion go for a plain one colour bike, then get some accents of another colour thrown in there, for example black and orange or black and red.

You also have the opportunity to make your older CBR look new. Look into the fixings available so that you can fit new style fairings on your older bike or even the other way around. This will definitely turn heads.

The latest bike from Honda is also worth mentioning, the NM4 Vultus. To be honest it looks like something Batman would ride, with it’s square matt black fairings against its shiny metal parts make it one to look at. With what Honda claims to be “jet fighter styling” the bike envelopes the rider “in a cocoon of aerodynamic angles inspired by Japanese Manga comics”. This 750cc monster even comes with a digital display that changes depending on what gear you’re in. With white, pink, blue and red as standard, and the option to adjust it to another 25 other colours. This bike is truly from another planet and will be interesting to see in person.

1. The first thing to consider when buying new motorcycle fairing kits is your budget. Ultimately, your budget determines the quality of the fairings your purchase. I recommend that if you are going to replace your fairings, have an idea of how much you want to spend on your fairings. The highest quality fairings will be expensive, but you are paying for quality. But remember that there are also good quality fairings available at lower prices. Try to stick within your budget, but be realistic. For example, if you can get your fairings repaired and resprayed by a reputable body shop for a lower price, then your budget is probably too high.

1. My second tip when looking for motorcycle fairings is the material they are made from. Low cost fairings will generally be made from low quality materials. The best materials for making fairings are glass fibre, carbon fibre, or ABS. The most common is ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene). This is a polymer that is usually injection moulded to form the fairings; this makes fairings that are lighter and low cost, but still strong. Glass fibre is generally from older model bikes as it is heavier, but more durable than ABS, and more expensive as it usually has to be ‘layed up’ by hand. Carbon fibre fairings are the newest on the market, they are the lightest and the strongest, however they are very expensive and prone to shattering, these are generally used on race bikes due to their low weight.

1. Thirdly, you need to consider the condition of your existing fairings, do they all need replacing? Or do just one or two need fixing up? It may be cheaper to find single fairings to replace that are the same colour (if you have factory colours) Alternatively, it may also be cheaper to repair the fairing yourself and then get your local body shop to spray it. If you do require a full kit, make sure you get the one for your bike, it may be possible to use kits for previous/later models, but you may need to confirm this with the manufacturer.

1. My fourth tip is reputation. Ensure when looking for fairing kits that you buy them from a reputable manufacturer. Read reviews available, and don’t get put off by people that moan about the postage time, that’s more than likely, not the manufacturers fault! Find out what the paint finish is like, whether they are easy to install. Also find out whether you need a new fixing kit to go with your fairings, or can you use all your original ones. Remember it’s a lot easier to buy a fairing kit that is PRE-DRILLED! It will save you a lot of time and headache when you come to install your new fairings.

1. My final tip is: take your time! Look around, don’t go rushing into buying the cheapest fairings from eBay that will take a year to get delivered from China. Also, make sure that you get the look that you want, if one or two of the decals put you off, the colour isn’t quite right or you want to change them then ask! Most companies make to order so will be more than happy to change some elements for you. Also some companies may also be willing to design a whole new fairing set, exactly the way you want! So don’t be afraid to ask! But also don’t get upset when they say no, they’re not obliged to change anything for you.