So you’ve decided you’re going the brave the cold this winter and use the bike. Well done! The temperature is bound to drop, so unless you live in the middle east or somewhere nice and warm, you will need to follow these steps to ensure your bike is at its best. Preparing for winter riding can often be a laborious task that we all hate. However, it’s one that needs to be done if you’re planning to ride throughout the winter. With a few hours of effort you can make your winter riding a lot better and safer. 

Firstly, make sure your bike has a decent service; you will need to at least change your oil and the filter. It is also a good idea at this point to change your brake and clutch fluid if it’s due, and also change your coolant. If your bike uses antifreeze make sure that this is topped up and at the correct ratio, maybe even change it if you think it’s necessary.  Replace your tires as soon as possible if necessary, you do not want to be riding in wet or icy conditions on brand new tires, this is very dangerous. If they don’t need replacing, make sure you check their pressure as cold weather can cause it to decrease.

The next step is to check your battery. If it is old, the first step will be to replace it. New advances in battery technology means sealed motorcycle batteries are readily available. These often provide higher amperage for better cranking in cold conditions, and they also last a lot longer when not used for a while. If you choose not to replace your battery, make sure you clean the terminals and apply some terminal grease. Make sure your terminals and connections are all secure. It may also help to cover the battery terminals in a smear of Vaseline to protect from the cold weather.

Check all available electrical connections for wear, damage and corrosion. Make sure to repair any damage found. At this point also check all your instruments and lights. If it’s been a while since you replaced your headlights and they seem a bit dim, replace them. It is always best in case they do blow while you’re riding, which can be especially dangerous during the dark winter nights. At this point check your fuses are all in good condition, also check all of your backup fuses and top them up if necessary. At this stage it is recommended to get a battery charger, this will ensure that during the cold your bike will start without fail, and if it won’t you can always use them for a quick boost to start it.

The next few steps are to ensure your clutch and brakes are all in working order. Lube up your clutch cable, as winter riding is known for letting grit and water trapped in the cable causing corrosion and damage. Your clutch is the last thing you want to break when riding. 

Finally, give your bike a good clean. This will need to be done at least once a fortnight to ensure a build up of muck does not damage the bike.  Also ensure your winter kit still fits, is comfortable and is warm enough for the weather you’ll be riding in. Oh and a new set of Motorcycle Fairings might be a good idea as well. 

The GSXR or ‘gixxer’ as us bikers call it, is one of the most iconic bikes of the Suzuki range. The GSXR is known as one of the proven fastest production bikes in the world in the form of the GSX 1300R Hayabusa. The GSXR1000 doesn’t fall far from the tree. Production of the GSXR1000 started in 2001 and has had over 8 models so far, with at least 4 major improvements in power, design and weight.

The GSXR1000 started production in 2001 and was designed to be a replacement for the GSXR1100. As you can tell from the name the new model was 100cc less than its predecessor, and is simply a larger version of the GSXR750. Taking many parts from it’s little brother the main frame is the same, with the 1000cc version being made from 0.5mm thicker material, which increased the torsional strength by 10% compared to the 750. 

The engine in the GSXR1000 was simply a rebuilt, larger version of the 750’s engine, with a 1mm larger bore, a 13mm longer stroke and newly designed pistons. The engine weighed 57kg, slightly heavier than the 750, but 14kg lighter than the 1300.  With a peak of 160bhp at 9500rpm at the crank, and 143hp at the rear wheel, the GSXR1000 is full of power. With a redline at 12000rpm and a maximum torque of 110Nm there’s the acceleration to match with a 0-62mph time of 3 seconds and a ¼ mile time of 10.1 seconds at 142mph, surpassing the 1998 Yamaha YZF-R1.

Over the several models the GSXR1000 became lighter with the use of titanium down pipes,  it had more power, torque and of course the GSXR1000 fairings were updated with new shapes, colour schemes and decals. In the K3 model Suzuki chose to replace the six-piston brake calipers with lighter four-piston models, which provided better stopping power and better turning performance. Updates in this model also saw better torque and power due to an improved air intake system, which altered the placement of the headlights on the GSXR1000 fairings and an upgrade of the ECU to 32bit from the previous 16bit. In this model the entire exhaust system was crafted from titanium to reduce weight by 600g. 

In 2005 the K5 model saw a redesigned engine and chassis with a 2kg reduction in weight and an 11cc increase in piston displacement. The frame altered the dimensions of the bike, but the well-known GSXR1000 geometrics stayed the same. The weight was now reduced to 201kg and the power output increased to 162.1bhp at 11,500rpm and an increased torque of 108.3Nm at 8500rpm. The K5/K6 model is still to this day the fastest production motorbike on the planet, only being surpassed by the Dodge Tomahawk, which has a theoretical top speed of over 300mph, however they were described as ‘rolling sculptures’ and were never intended to be ridden. To this day no one has been known to reach more than 100mph on the Dodge, making the GSXR1000 safely the fastest mass-produced motorcycle in the world.

In 2007, new emission regulations meant the exhaust system had to be revised and the bike gained 6.4kg over the K6 model. The K7 model also saw the implementation of three different engine-mapping configurations, selectable via two buttons located on the right handlebar. One up, and one down arrow to cycle between Mode A (unrestricted), Mode B (reduced power until 50% throttle is applied), and Mode C (reduced power throughout the rpm regardless of throttle application). It also received a hydraulic clutch.

Overall, the GSXR1000 is an iconic bike. It has safely had the top spot of world’s fastest production motorbike for the past 8 years, and no one seems to be bothering to beat it. The GSXR1000 is reliable, very good value and has superb ride and handling. Although it may lack sophisticated ABS and traction control that is seen on models such as BMW’s S1000RR that makes them better on the track, it still can keep up. But lets be honest, this bike is meant for the road and will be around for a while.

Born in 1999, the R6 was the world’s first 600cc mass produced motorbike to produce over 100hp in stock form. The R6 was designed as a street version of the YZF600R and as a little brother to the R1. The R6 contained a completely new engine that could produce 108hp straight out of the box. 

Since then, the R6 fairings have had several upgrades, usually most of these were cosmetic in an annual update to the colour schemes, but in 2003, the R6 saw the addition of a fuel injection system to blast it into the 21^st century. In 2006 the R6 gained a new deltabox frame and engine management system and in 2008 it was gifted a new air intake system that could change its length to optimize power at high rpm. The newest model saw an increase in hp from the original 108hp to a whopping 122hp.

With a top speed of around 170mph the R6 is no slouch, although not as fast as his big brother, the R1, with a top speed of almost 200mph. The R6 has more than enough power to scare the average person and the acceleration to match with a scary 0-60mph in 3.7s and 0-100mph in 6.5s.

The R6s top end performance is one of the high points of this bike. With a constantly updated fuel injection system and similar injection systems to the R1, the mid range has also been improved over the years. In the newer models the fuel tank has been reduced in size from 18l to 17.3l to save weight, in addition to a new subframe made of magnesium alloy to drop the weight by 450g. However, the addition of the new air intake system meant that the overall weight of the bike has not changed. The newer models also see better reliability due to the fuel injection system as opposed to the older models and there has also been an increase in stiffness around the headstock. This, along with a heavier braced swingarm has meant the bike is more stable, but still retains its quick steering ability. The suspension has also been revised and is one of the best mass-produced systems on the market. Since the bike was born to the present day the ride has not changed much, however it is noticeably improved at high speeds due to the upgrades over the years.

The advantage of the R6 is its resale value. As the R6 fairings shapes have not changed massively over the years the older bikes still don’t seem outdated. This and little change to the performance has meant that the resale value of older bikes is still holding strong. As with the rest of the YZF-R range the resale value on these bikes means that you don’t need to worry about your bike plummeting in value. The little change also means your older bike can still look good, even when placed up against the newest models. 

Overall, the R6 is arguably the best 600cc super sport bike around today. It has the history and reliability of the well known Yamaha brand, and as it’s once of the fastest 600s around, even at stock, it will never disappoint and will always leave you with a smile on your face. Especially if you keep it above 10,000 rpm.